Tan Bei oolong
Taiwanese rolled oolong finished over charcoal in repeated sessions separated by weeks of rest, rather than in an electric oven. The rest intervals let the roast migrate inward and integrate; a single long roast at the same total energy tastes harsh by comparison.
Character
Deeply roasted without being charred, which is the whole difficulty of the technique. Poor examples taste of nothing but burnt sugar.
- Flavour
- Roasted, Sweet, Nutty
- Aroma
- Toasted, Caramelised
- Mouthfeel
- Full bodied, Rich, Smooth
- Complexity
- Layered
- Notes
- roasted chestnut, caramel, dried longan, warm wood
- Aftertaste
- Deep, sweet and very long.
Moderate intensity: noticeable weight or grip, but neither dominates the cup.
Provenance and production
- Origin
- Taiwan
- Region
- Nantou
- Cultivar
- Qing Xin
- Oxidation
- Partially oxidised
- Roast
- Heavy
- Harvest
- Winter
- Processing
- Withering → Bruising (shaking) → Oxidation → Kill-green (fixation) → Cloth-ball rolling → Drying → Charcoal roasting
Where it grows
The districts recorded against this tea, all of them in Taiwan. Elevation is given as the band the district is recorded at, not a measurement of the garden this leaf came from.
- Nantou — 400–1800 metres
How firm this is: Inferred from general knowledge of the district rather than measured or taken from a source that states it.
The plants it is made from
Cultivar is the level below the variety group: a named selection of the tea plant, propagated as clones from one parent. Most consumer writing stops at the country and the category, which leaves out the layer that decides how the leaf behaves before anyone picks it.
- Qing Xin — Camellia sinensis var. sinensis
Low yield and weak disease resistance, against a thick, sweet, gardenia-scented cup with a marked cooling finish. Almost all Alishan, Li Shan and Da Yu Ling tea is Qing Xin.
How it is made, in order
Read top to bottom: the list is the production sequence, and the sequence is what makes this tea its category rather than a neighbouring one. The same leaf from the same bush becomes a green tea or a black tea depending on where the heat falls relative to the bruising, so reordering these steps would not vary the tea — it would produce a different one.
- 1. Withering — Reduces water content, softens the leaf for later handling, and permits early enzymatic and aromatic development.
- 2. Bruising (shaking) — Ruptures cells selectively at the leaf margin, initiating localised enzymatic oxidation while the leaf centre remains unoxidised.
- 3. Oxidation — Allows polyphenol oxidase to act on leaf polyphenols after cell rupture, converting them into the larger coloured compounds that give oxidised tea its colour and body.
- 4. Kill-green (fixation) — Denatures polyphenol oxidase and related enzymes, arresting enzymatic oxidation.
- 5. Cloth-ball rolling — Compresses and kneads leaf in cloth bundles repeatedly, forming dense spheres while progressively rupturing cell walls.
- 6. Drying — Reduces residual moisture to a level at which enzymatic, microbial and oxidative change effectively stops, stabilising the leaf for storage.
- 7. Charcoal roasting — Applies low, even radiant heat over long periods with rest intervals, driving off moisture and transforming leaf compounds progressively.
The route it is made by
The steps above are what happens; this is the named production route they belong to, with the other teas made the same way.
- Roasted ball oolong — Ball rolling and a charcoal roast in the same route, which the two Sprint 32 oolong records deliberately kept apart. It is the traditional half of a schism the Anxi trade has been arguing about for a generation.
Where it is practised: Anxi in Fujian, where it is the traditional side of the qingxiang–nongxiang division; Dong Ding and the charcoal houses of Nantou in Taiwan; and increasingly a deliberate revival product in both places rather than a survival.
What its chemistry turns on
Every true tea contains caffeine, catechins and amino acids, so listing them would say nothing about this one. What differs is what the processing above does to them — and that is the same list of steps, read for its chemistry instead of its craft.
The compounds that substantially decide what this tea is: Epimerised catechins, Melanoidins.
- Withering
- creates Geraniol
- creates Linalool
- creates Linalool oxides
- creates Theasinensins
- raises Methyl salicylate
- raises Nerolidol
- raises Soluble sugars
- lowers cis-3-Hexenol
- lowers Green-leaf volatiles
- lowers Leaf lipids
- Bruising (shaking)
- converts Leaf lipids
- creates Theasinensins
- raises Indole
- raises Jasmine lactone
- raises Linalool
- raises Nerolidol
- Oxidation
- converts Carotenoids
- converts Catechins
- converts ECG (epicatechin gallate)
- converts EGC (epigallocatechin)
- converts EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate)
- converts Epicatechin
- converts Linalool
- creates Beta-damascenone
- creates Beta-ionone
- creates GABA (gamma-aminobutyric acid)
- creates Linalool oxides
- creates Tea cream
- creates Theaflavins
- creates Thearubigins
- raises 2-Phenylethanol
- raises Geraniol
- raises Nerolidol
- lowers Anthocyanins
- lowers Theogallin
- Kill-green (fixation)
- locks 2-Phenylethanol
- locks Anthocyanins
- locks Catechins
- locks cis-3-Hexenol
- locks Green-leaf volatiles
- locks L-theanine
- locks Leaf lipids
- locks Methylated catechins
- locks Theogallin
- Cloth-ball rolling
- lowers Green-leaf volatiles
- Drying
- creates Strecker aldehydes
- raises Beta-damascenone
- raises Thearubigins
- Charcoal roasting
- creates Epimerised catechins
- creates Melanoidins
- creates Pyrazines
- raises Guaiacol
- lowers Geraniol
These are statements about the leaf and the cup. What any of these compounds does in a body is a different kind of question and is not answered here or on the pages linked from it.
Brewing
Gongfu brewing (gaiwan)
5–7 g/100 ml · 90–95 °C · 6 authored infusions
Needs: Gaiwan
Western brewing (teapot or mug)
1.5–2.5 g/100 ml · 90–95 °C · 2 authored infusions
Needs: Western teapot
Gongfu brewing (Yixing pot)
5.5–7 g/100 ml · 95–100 °C · 6 authored infusions
Needs: Yixing teapot, Fairness pitcher (cha hai), Tea tray (cha pan)
No caffeine estimate is authored for this tea. TeaHQ does not infer one from its category, because category predicts caffeine poorly — matcha and gyokuro carry more than many black teas.
When the cup goes wrong
Written against oolong as a category rather than against this tea in particular, and worked back from the symptom to the likely causes in order. 18 apply to the category; the first 6 are shown.
- Every infusion in my gongfu session tastes the same — The cups are pleasant and interchangeable, with none of the change from steep to steep the method is supposed to show.
- My clay pot has changed how the tea tastes — A tea that tasted right in porcelain comes out muted, differently scented, or carrying something that was not in the leaf.
- My cold brew tastes like faintly flavoured water — After a night in the fridge the jug is pale and tastes of very little, with none of the sweetness cold brewing is supposed to give.
- My first infusion is always the worst one — The opening cup is thin, dusty or flat, and the second is markedly better — consistently, across different teas.
- My gaiwan is too hot to hold — The rim and lid become uncomfortable within seconds, the pour is rushed, and tea ends up on the tray.
- My gongfu brewing falls apart when I have guests — Sessions that work perfectly alone become chaotic with three or four people: the tea is inconsistent, the pours are rushed, and the cups arrive at different strengths and temperatures.
If you like this
Grouped by why they were suggested, strongest reason first. Nothing here is a blended score — a suggestion appears under the best reason that exists for it, and never under a weaker one as well.
Editorially linked
Someone wrote down why these two belong together. The note below is theirs.
- Hong Shui Dong Ding
Both roasted Taiwanese oolongs, one moderate and one taken to the edge. The step up is in roast depth rather than in oxidation.
- Chen Xiang Tie Guan Yin
Two heavily charcoal-roasted rolled oolongs from different islands, both tasting more of the roast than of the leaf.
- Nong Xiang Tie Guan Yin (roasted)
Two heavily charcoal-roasted rolled oolongs from Taiwan and Anxi. Both taste more of roast than of leaf and are frequently mistaken for each other.
Similar sensory profile
Shares controlled flavour, aroma and mouthfeel descriptors. A looser match — two teas can share descriptors and still taste nothing alike.
- Dong Ding
Shares 8 descriptors with Tan Bei oolong: roasted, nutty, sweet, full bodied, smooth, rich, toasted and caramelised.
- Huoshan Huang Da Cha
Shares 7 descriptors with Tan Bei oolong: roasted, nutty, sweet, full bodied, smooth, toasted and caramelised.
- Da Hong Pao
Shares 6 descriptors with Tan Bei oolong: roasted, full bodied, rich, smooth, caramelised and toasted.
- GABA oolong
Shares 6 descriptors with Tan Bei oolong: sweet, roasted, full bodied, smooth, rich and caramelised.
- Guifei oolong
Shares 6 descriptors with Tan Bei oolong: sweet, roasted, full bodied, smooth, rich and caramelised.
Journeys featuring this tea
- Understanding roast — Someone who likes oolong and cannot tell whether they are tasting the leaf or the fire.
- I like coffee — A coffee drinker who finds most tea thin and wants something with body and roast.
- I want stronger tea — Someone who finds most tea watery and wants something that arrives with force.
- Exploring Taiwanese tea — Someone who has had one high-mountain oolong and wants the rest of the island.
- Understanding oxidation — Someone who has read that oxidation defines tea categories and cannot taste what it does.