Azores tea
Tea grown on São Miguel in the Azores, and the only commercial tea plantation left in Europe. The island's mid-Atlantic climate does the work a mountain does elsewhere — constant humidity, mild winters, volcanic soil — and its isolation does something rarer: the insect and fungal pests that tea carries everywhere else never reached the island, so the gardens are farmed without pesticides not as a philosophy but because there is nothing to spray for. Output is tiny and sold mostly to visitors and within Portugal, in two styles named from the old China trade: a green sold as Hysson and a black sold by broken-leaf grade.
Character
Mild and rounded rather than characterful — closer to a gentle Ceylon than to anything the geography suggests. The interest here is genuinely more in the place than in the cup, and saying so is more useful than inflating the tasting note.
- Flavour
- Woody, Sweet
- Aroma
- Malty
- Mouthfeel
- Medium, Smooth
- Complexity
- Straightforward
- Notes
- dry hay, light malt, sea air, stewed apple
- Aftertaste
- Soft and short, without much tannic grip.
Moderate intensity: noticeable weight or grip, but neither dominates the cup.
Provenance and production
- Origin
- Portugal
- Region
- São Miguel
- Cultivar
- Not established
- Oxidation
- Fully oxidised
- Harvest
- Spring
- Processing
- Withering → Rolling and shaping → Oxidation → Drying
Authenticity: The volume is small enough that the plantations sell most of it themselves. 'Portuguese tea' on a blend is more often Portuguese packing than Portuguese growing.
Where it grows
The districts recorded against this tea, all of them in Portugal. Elevation is given as the band the district is recorded at, not a measurement of the garden this leaf came from.
- São Miguel — 40–300 metres
How firm this is: Inferred from general knowledge of the district rather than measured or taken from a source that states it.
How it is made, in order
Read top to bottom: the list is the production sequence, and the sequence is what makes this tea its category rather than a neighbouring one. The same leaf from the same bush becomes a green tea or a black tea depending on where the heat falls relative to the bruising, so reordering these steps would not vary the tea — it would produce a different one.
- 1. Withering — Reduces water content, softens the leaf for later handling, and permits early enzymatic and aromatic development.
- 2. Rolling and shaping — Ruptures cell walls to expose leaf juices, and forms the leaf into the shape it will hold through drying and storage.
- 3. Oxidation — Allows polyphenol oxidase to act on leaf polyphenols after cell rupture, converting them into the larger coloured compounds that give oxidised tea its colour and body.
- 4. Drying — Reduces residual moisture to a level at which enzymatic, microbial and oxidative change effectively stops, stabilising the leaf for storage.
The route it is made by
The steps above are what happens; this is the named production route they belong to, with the other teas made the same way.
- Orthodox black tea — Rupture first and let the reaction run. Heat arrives only at the very end, to stop something that has already been allowed to finish.
Where it is practised: The whole of the fine black tea trade: Darjeeling, Assam's orthodox lines, Sri Lanka, Nilgiri, Nepal, Kenya's orthodox factories, and the Chinese gongfu black teas of Fujian, Anhui and Yunnan, which run the same shape with markedly gentler settings.
What its chemistry turns on
Every true tea contains caffeine, catechins and amino acids, so listing them would say nothing about this one. What differs is what the processing above does to them — and that is the same list of steps, read for its chemistry instead of its craft.
- Withering
- creates Geraniol
- creates Linalool
- creates Linalool oxides
- creates Theasinensins
- raises Methyl salicylate
- raises Nerolidol
- raises Soluble sugars
- lowers cis-3-Hexenol
- lowers Green-leaf volatiles
- lowers Leaf lipids
- Rolling and shaping
- converts Leaf lipids
- creates Theaflavins
- raises Pectins
- Oxidation
- converts Carotenoids
- converts Catechins
- converts ECG (epicatechin gallate)
- converts EGC (epigallocatechin)
- converts EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate)
- converts Epicatechin
- converts Linalool
- creates Beta-damascenone
- creates Beta-ionone
- creates GABA (gamma-aminobutyric acid)
- creates Linalool oxides
- creates Tea cream
- creates Theaflavins
- creates Thearubigins
- raises 2-Phenylethanol
- raises Geraniol
- raises Nerolidol
- lowers Anthocyanins
- lowers Theogallin
- Drying
- creates Strecker aldehydes
- raises Beta-damascenone
- raises Thearubigins
These are statements about the leaf and the cup. What any of these compounds does in a body is a different kind of question and is not answered here or on the pages linked from it.
Brewing
Western brewing (teapot or mug)
1.5–2.5 g/100 ml · 92–98 °C · 1 authored infusion
Needs: Western teapot
Gongfu brewing (gaiwan)
4–5 g/100 ml · 90–95 °C · 5 authored infusions
Needs: Gaiwan
No caffeine estimate is authored for this tea. TeaHQ does not infer one from its category, because category predicts caffeine poorly — matcha and gyokuro carry more than many black teas.
Common mistakes
- Expecting the rarity to be audible in the cup. It is an honest everyday black tea grown somewhere improbable, and the improbability is the point.
When the cup goes wrong
Written against black tea as a category rather than against this tea in particular, and worked back from the symptom to the likely causes in order. 19 apply to the category; the first 6 are shown.
- My chai catches on the pan or boils over — A scorched note runs through the finished drink, or the pan foams over the moment your back is turned.
- My chai is harsh and drying rather than rich — The drink is strong enough but unpleasant with it: a rough, drying grip on the tongue and a flat cooked note, rather than the round sweetness a good chai has.
- My chai tastes of hot spiced milk rather than tea — The drink is pleasant and sweet and the tea is nowhere in it — no colour to speak of, no briskness, and nothing that would tell you tea had been involved.
- My iced tea has gone cloudy — Tea that was clear when hot turns hazy or milky once chilled.
- My iced tea tastes watery once the ice melts — The tea is good for the first mouthful and thin by the bottom of the glass.
- My milk curdles or separates in the tea — Flecks or threads appear when the milk goes in, or the surface breaks into small islands, and the drink looks grainy rather than smooth.
If you like this
Grouped by why they were suggested, strongest reason first. Nothing here is a blended score — a suggestion appears under the best reason that exists for it, and never under a weaker one as well.
Similar sensory profile
Shares controlled flavour, aroma and mouthfeel descriptors. A looser match — two teas can share descriptors and still taste nothing alike.
- Anamalai tea
Shares 5 descriptors with Azores tea: sweet, woody, medium, smooth and malty.
- Tanyang Gongfu
Shares 5 descriptors with Azores tea: sweet, woody, smooth, medium and malty.
- Yi Hong
Shares 5 descriptors with Azores tea: sweet, woody, medium, smooth and malty.
- Balhyocha
Shares 4 descriptors with Azores tea: sweet, woody, smooth and medium.
- Charleston black tea
Shares 4 descriptors with Azores tea: sweet, medium, smooth and malty.
- Cheongtaejeon
Shares 4 descriptors with Azores tea: woody, sweet, medium and smooth.
- Darjeeling muscatel
Shares 4 descriptors with Azores tea: sweet, woody, medium and smooth.
- Georgian black tea
Shares 4 descriptors with Azores tea: sweet, medium, smooth and malty.