Bitaco tea
Tea from a cloud-forest valley on the western Andean cordillera above the Dagua river, and in practice the whole of Colombian production — one plantation, established in the middle of the twentieth century, sitting inside a private forest reserve and selling almost everything it makes inside the country. That makes Colombia a useful counter-example to an assumption this catalogue could easily encourage: that a producing country implies an industry. There is no auction, no export trade of consequence and no second district. What the setting does contribute is real and specific. Near-permanent cloud at this altitude in the tropics gives diffuse light and moderated temperature — the same combination that Japanese growers spend money on shade cloth to manufacture, occurring here as weather. The country's agricultural identity abroad rests entirely on coffee, and the tea grows a few valleys away from it.
Character
Gentler and less brisk than the equatorial CTC origins, which is what an orthodox route on cloud-shaded leaf ought to give. It is a small tea in every sense and unusually easy to drink.
- Flavour
- Nutty, Vegetal
- Aroma
- Malty, Fresh
- Mouthfeel
- Medium, Smooth
- Complexity
- Straightforward
- Notes
- malt, green wood, wet leaf
- Aftertaste
- Soft and clean.
Moderate intensity: noticeable weight or grip, but neither dominates the cup.
Provenance and production
Where it grows
The districts recorded against this tea, all of them in Colombia. Elevation is given as the band the district is recorded at, not a measurement of the garden this leaf came from.
- Bitaco — 1500–2000 metres
How firm this is: Inferred from general knowledge of the district rather than measured or taken from a source that states it.
How it is made, in order
Read top to bottom: the list is the production sequence, and the sequence is what makes this tea its category rather than a neighbouring one. The same leaf from the same bush becomes a green tea or a black tea depending on where the heat falls relative to the bruising, so reordering these steps would not vary the tea — it would produce a different one.
- 1. Hand plucking — Removes selected young shoots at the tender break point, leaving mature leaf and unready shoots on the bush and delivering a uniform, undamaged intake to the factory.
- 2. Trough withering — Drives conditioned air through a bed of leaf at a controlled rate, bringing the whole batch down to a target moisture level within a scheduled period.
- 3. Orthodox processing — Twists and presses the leaf to rupture cells without severing it, preserving leaf integrity through oxidation and drying.
- 4. Repeat rolling and roll-breaking (fu rou) — Breaks the compacted mass discharged from a roller, removes the fraction that is already sufficiently worked, and returns the remainder for further passes under a graded pressure schedule, so that rupture is distributed evenly across the whole intake.
- 5. Controlled-environment oxidation — Holds ruptured leaf at a controlled temperature and near-saturated humidity with enough air movement to supply oxygen and carry away reaction heat, so oxidation proceeds evenly across the whole batch.
- 6. Drying — Reduces residual moisture to a level at which enzymatic, microbial and oxidative change effectively stops, stabilising the leaf for storage.
- 7. Sorting and grading — Separates finished leaf into fractions by size, density, colour and magnetic response, removing stem and foreign matter and producing uniform, tradeable lots.
- 8. Blending to a standard — Combines separately manufactured lots in measured proportions against a retained reference sample, producing a batch that matches a fixed profile from variable inputs.
The route it is made by
The steps above are what happens; this is the named production route they belong to, with the other teas made the same way.
- Orthodox black tea — Rupture first and let the reaction run. Heat arrives only at the very end, to stop something that has already been allowed to finish.
Where it is practised: The whole of the fine black tea trade: Darjeeling, Assam's orthodox lines, Sri Lanka, Nilgiri, Nepal, Kenya's orthodox factories, and the Chinese gongfu black teas of Fujian, Anhui and Yunnan, which run the same shape with markedly gentler settings.
What its chemistry turns on
Every true tea contains caffeine, catechins and amino acids, so listing them would say nothing about this one. What differs is what the processing above does to them — and that is the same list of steps, read for its chemistry instead of its craft.
- Hand plucking
- converts Leaf lipids
- raises Free amino acids
- Trough withering
- raises 2-Phenylethanol
- Orthodox processing
- lowers Tea cream
- Repeat rolling and roll-breaking (fu rou)
- converts Catechins
- converts Leaf lipids
- Controlled-environment oxidation
- raises Theaflavins
- Drying
- creates Strecker aldehydes
- raises Beta-damascenone
- raises Thearubigins
These are statements about the leaf and the cup. What any of these compounds does in a body is a different kind of question and is not answered here or on the pages linked from it.
Brewing
Western brewing (teapot or mug)
1.5–2.5 g/100 ml · 90–98 °C · 1 authored infusion
Needs: Western teapot
Gongfu brewing (gaiwan)
4–5 g/100 ml · 90–95 °C · 5 authored infusions
Needs: Gaiwan
No caffeine estimate is authored for this tea. TeaHQ does not infer one from its category, because category predicts caffeine poorly — matcha and gyokuro carry more than many black teas.
Common mistakes
- Reading 'Colombia' as an industry. One plantation is the whole of it, and expansion has never happened.
When the cup goes wrong
Written against black tea as a category rather than against this tea in particular, and worked back from the symptom to the likely causes in order. 19 apply to the category; the first 6 are shown.
- My chai catches on the pan or boils over — A scorched note runs through the finished drink, or the pan foams over the moment your back is turned.
- My chai is harsh and drying rather than rich — The drink is strong enough but unpleasant with it: a rough, drying grip on the tongue and a flat cooked note, rather than the round sweetness a good chai has.
- My chai tastes of hot spiced milk rather than tea — The drink is pleasant and sweet and the tea is nowhere in it — no colour to speak of, no briskness, and nothing that would tell you tea had been involved.
- My iced tea has gone cloudy — Tea that was clear when hot turns hazy or milky once chilled.
- My iced tea tastes watery once the ice melts — The tea is good for the first mouthful and thin by the bottom of the glass.
- My milk curdles or separates in the tea — Flecks or threads appear when the milk goes in, or the surface breaks into small islands, and the drink looks grainy rather than smooth.
If you like this
Grouped by why they were suggested, strongest reason first. Nothing here is a blended score — a suggestion appears under the best reason that exists for it, and never under a weaker one as well.
Similar sensory profile
Shares controlled flavour, aroma and mouthfeel descriptors. A looser match — two teas can share descriptors and still taste nothing alike.
- Lankaran tea
Shares 5 descriptors with Bitaco tea: nutty, medium, smooth, malty and fresh.
- Beigang Mao Jian
Shares 4 descriptors with Bitaco tea: nutty, medium, smooth and fresh.
- Charleston black tea
Shares 4 descriptors with Bitaco tea: nutty, medium, smooth and malty.
- Enshi Yu Lu
Shares 4 descriptors with Bitaco tea: vegetal, nutty, medium and fresh.
- Georgian black tea
Shares 4 descriptors with Bitaco tea: medium, smooth, fresh and malty.
- Guricha
Shares 4 descriptors with Bitaco tea: vegetal, medium, smooth and fresh.
- Junshan Yinzhen
Shares 4 descriptors with Bitaco tea: vegetal, nutty, smooth and fresh.
- Laoshan green tea
Shares 4 descriptors with Bitaco tea: vegetal, nutty, smooth and fresh.