Yame gyokuro
Gyokuro from Yame in Fukuoka, where river-valley fog reduces the need for artificial shading and the tradition of very long shade periods is strongest. It is generally regarded alongside Uji as the top gyokuro producing area.
Character
Intensely savoury and thick, closer to a broth than to tea. The near-cold brewing is what makes it possible.
- Flavour
- Umami, Vegetal, Sweet
- Aroma
- Marine
- Mouthfeel
- Full bodied, Silky, Rich
- Complexity
- Layered
- Notes
- seaweed, sweet broth, steamed greens
- Aftertaste
- Thick, savoury and extremely long.
Moderate intensity: noticeable weight or grip, but neither dominates the cup.
Provenance and production
- Origin
- Japan
- Oxidation
- Unoxidised
- Harvest
- Spring
- Processing
- Shading → Steaming (Japanese fixation) → Rolling and shaping → Drying
Where it grows
The districts recorded against this tea, all of them in Japan. Elevation is given as the band the district is recorded at, not a measurement of the garden this leaf came from.
The plants it is made from
Cultivar is the level below the variety group: a named selection of the tea plant, propagated as clones from one parent. Most consumer writing stops at the country and the category, which leaves out the layer that decides how the leaf behaves before anyone picks it.
- Gokou — Camellia sinensis var. sinensis
The strong marine note divides drinkers sharply. It is a cultivar characteristic and not a fault of the tea or of the water.
- Okumidori — Camellia sinensis var. sinensis
Its late season is an agronomic virtue rather than a flavour one, but it is why so much single-cultivar matcha is Okumidori.
How it is made, in order
Read top to bottom: the list is the production sequence, and the sequence is what makes this tea its category rather than a neighbouring one. The same leaf from the same bush becomes a green tea or a black tea depending on where the heat falls relative to the bruising, so reordering these steps would not vary the tea — it would produce a different one.
- 1. Shading — Restricts light to the growing leaf, shifting its amino-acid and polyphenol balance and deepening its colour before harvest.
- 2. Steaming (Japanese fixation) — Denatures polyphenol oxidase using saturated steam, arresting oxidation without applying dry contact heat to the leaf surface.
- 3. Rolling and shaping — Ruptures cell walls to expose leaf juices, and forms the leaf into the shape it will hold through drying and storage.
- 4. Drying — Reduces residual moisture to a level at which enzymatic, microbial and oxidative change effectively stops, stabilising the leaf for storage.
The route it is made by
The steps above are what happens; this is the named production route they belong to, with the other teas made the same way.
- Japanese steamed green tea — Fixation by steam within hours of plucking, then a rolling sequence that dries and shapes at once — and then a second factory that turns one intake into four named teas.
Where it is practised: Almost all Japanese green tea. Also the route for Chinese steamed greens such as Enshi Yu Lu, which use the same fixation and none of the refining tail.
What its chemistry turns on
Every true tea contains caffeine, catechins and amino acids, so listing them would say nothing about this one. What differs is what the processing above does to them — and that is the same list of steps, read for its chemistry instead of its craft.
The compounds that substantially decide what this tea is: Chlorophyll, Dimethyl sulfide, L-theanine.
- Shading
- raises Arginine
- raises Caffeine
- raises Chlorophyll
- raises Dimethyl sulfide
- raises Free amino acids
- raises Glutamic acid
- raises L-theanine
- raises Strecker aldehydes
- lowers Carotenoids
- lowers Catechins
- lowers EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate)
- lowers Flavonol glycosides
- Steaming (Japanese fixation)
- creates Dimethyl sulfide
- lowers Green-leaf volatiles
- locks Chlorophyll
- locks EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate)
- Rolling and shaping
- converts Leaf lipids
- creates Theaflavins
- raises Pectins
- Drying
- creates Strecker aldehydes
- raises Beta-damascenone
- raises Thearubigins
These are statements about the leaf and the cup. What any of these compounds does in a body is a different kind of question and is not answered here or on the pages linked from it.
History
Yame’s gyokuro industry developed from the 1920s, taking advantage of river-valley fog that reduces the need for artificial shading. It and Uji are now the two areas making gyokuro at the top grade.
TeaHQ synthesis — TeaHQ's own reading of well-attested general knowledge, with no single source behind it.
Brewing
Western brewing (teapot or mug)
1.5–2.5 g/100 ml · 45–55 °C · 1 authored infusion
Needs: Western teapot
Kyusu brewing (Japanese style)
3–5 g/100 ml · 50–60 °C · 3 authored infusions
Needs: Kyusu
Gongfu brewing (gaiwan)
3–4 g/100 ml · 75–85 °C · 4 authored infusions
Needs: Gaiwan
Low-temperature brewing (gyokuro style)
8–15 g/100 ml · 40–55 °C · 4 authored infusions
Needs: Houhin, Shiboridashi, Kyusu, Thermometer
Ice steeping (kōridashi)
6–12 g/100 ml · 0–5 °C · 1 authored infusion
Needs: Shiboridashi, Glass teapot, Houhin
No caffeine estimate is authored for this tea. TeaHQ does not infer one from its category, because category predicts caffeine poorly — matcha and gyokuro carry more than many black teas.
Vessels this tea suits
Recorded against the tea rather than against a brewing style, because the vessel does not always follow from the method — a whisk needs lateral room whatever the schedule says, and compressed leaf needs a pick before any method applies at all.
- Houhin — A small handleless pot with a lid and an integral filter, used for shaded Japanese green tea. The absent handle is not a stylistic choice: this vessel is used at water temperatures low enough that the body never becomes too hot to hold, and a handle would advertise a heat the method is designed to avoid.
- Yuzamashi (water cooler) — The same manoeuvre for a shorter-shaded leaf brewed on the same principle.
Common mistakes
- Brewing it at normal green-tea temperature — anything above about 60 °C destroys the savoury character entirely.
When the cup goes wrong
Written against green tea as a category rather than against this tea in particular, and worked back from the symptom to the likely causes in order. 37 apply to the category; the first 6 are shown.
- I bought a big bag to save money and it was stale before I finished it — A large quantity bought at a good unit price faded well before it was drunk, so the saving turned into waste.
- I bought a water filter for my tea and it changed nothing — A filter jug or tap filter was bought specifically to improve the tea, and the cup tastes the same as it did before — with the same dullness, the same film and the same scale in the kettle.
- I have too many teas open and most of them are going stale — A dozen or more packets are open at once, three or four get drunk regularly, and the rest fade quietly on the shelf until they are thrown away.
- Leaves stick to the cup, the pot and my teeth — Fine leaf clings to the inside of the vessel, comes through into the cup, and ends up in the last mouthful.
- My bamboo whisk is losing tines — Fine bamboo tines snap off during whisking and turn up in the bowl, and the whisk feels stiff and splayed.
- My cold brew tastes like faintly flavoured water — After a night in the fridge the jug is pale and tastes of very little, with none of the sweetness cold brewing is supposed to give.
If you like this
Grouped by why they were suggested, strongest reason first. Nothing here is a blended score — a suggestion appears under the best reason that exists for it, and never under a weaker one as well.
Editorially linked
Someone wrote down why these two belong together. The note below is theirs.
- Karigane
Shaded stems, then the shaded leaf they were sorted from. Karigane is most of the sweetness at a fraction of the price.
- Kabusecha
Both shaded Japanese greens, differing in how long the cover stays on. Kabusecha’s shorter shading is a commercial middle ground, and the names are used loosely by sellers.
- Gyokuro
Gyokuro and its most prestigious regional expression. Yame and Uji are the two areas making it at the top grade, and unqualified 'gyokuro' spans a very wide quality range.
Similar sensory profile
Shares controlled flavour, aroma and mouthfeel descriptors. A looser match — two teas can share descriptors and still taste nothing alike.
- Matcha koicha grade
Shares 6 descriptors with Yame gyokuro: umami, sweet, full bodied, rich, silky and marine.
- Enshi Yu Lu
Shares 5 descriptors with Yame gyokuro: umami, vegetal, sweet, silky and marine.
- Fukamushicha
Shares 5 descriptors with Yame gyokuro: vegetal, umami, full bodied, rich and marine.
- Laoshan green tea
Shares 5 descriptors with Yame gyokuro: vegetal, sweet, umami, full bodied and rich.
- Matcha
Shares 5 descriptors with Yame gyokuro: umami, vegetal, full bodied, rich and marine.