Fruits and peels used in botanical drinks

The category with the widest gap between the picture on the packet and the ingredient list inside it. What dried fruit actually contributes, and how to read a fruit infusion honestly.

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Read the ingredient order

A great many fruit infusions are mostly apple and hibiscus with flavouring, and the named fruit is well down the list. Apple supplies body and sweetness cheaply, hibiscus supplies acidity and colour, and blackberry leaf supplies the tannin that stops the drink tasting like hot squash. None of that is illegal or even unusual. It is simply not what the raspberry on the front implies, and the ingredient order settles it in five seconds.

Drying destroys aroma and concentrates acid

The volatile compounds that make a fresh strawberry smell of strawberry do not survive drying. What survives is sugar, acid and tannin. That is why almost every commercial fruit infusion is flavoured as well as fruited, and why the few fruits that hold their character — blackcurrant, sour cherry, sea buckthorn — are the ones worth seeking out unflavoured.

Peel is not fruit

Citrus peel gives aroma and bitterness and no acidity at all — the sourness of a lemon lives entirely in the juice. The aroma sits in the coloured outer layer and the white pith beneath it carries only bitterness, which is why thin-pared peel is worth more than thick. Aged mandarin peel takes this furthest: years of storage turn a sharp citrus material into something dark and woody, and Xinhui chenpi is priced like a fine wine.

Preserves are not infusions

Korean yuja-cha and mogwa-cha, and the salted kumquats of southern China, are not dried materials to be steeped. They are fruit preserved in sugar, salt or honey and spooned into hot water. Treating them as an infusion — or a dried fruit as a preserve — produces something wrong in both directions.

The hard ones need simmering

Dried hawthorn slices, bael discs, elderberries and rosehips are dense and give up very little to a short steep. Every tradition that drinks them simmers them, and ten minutes at a boil is more useful than twenty in a cup.

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