Ying Xiang (No. 20) vs Qing Xin

A bred cultivar against the plant it was bred to relieve. Qing Xin makes almost all of Taiwan’s famous high-mountain oolong and is low-yielding and disease-prone; Ying Xiang offers more vigour and more aroma across a wider range of elevations, and the trade has not adopted it in Qing Xin’s place.

cultivar

What is being compared

Why these get confused

High-mountain character is credited to altitude alone. Altitude is doing a great deal, and it is doing it to a particular cultivar — the same elevation planted with a hardier plant does not give the same cup, which is why cultivar and mountain have to be read together.

Point by point

AspectYing XiangQing Xin
AromaPronounced and floral, and forward at any elevation.Thick, sweet and gardenia-scented, with a cooling finish that intensifies with altitude.
Vigour and disease resistanceBetter on both counts, which is what it was bred for.Low yield and weak resistance — the standing problem of Taiwanese oolong.
Elevation rangePlanted across a range, and it performs at moderate altitude.Rewards altitude specifically; below about a thousand metres it loses much of what it is bought for.
Market positionA useful plant with no name recognition.The name behind Alishan, Li Shan and Da Yu Ling.
What replaces it in a blendNothing — it is usually the whole tea when it is used.Nothing reproduces its finish, which is why growers accept the agronomics.
PriceLower for comparable growing conditions.Set by the mountain name as much as by the plant.

The short answer

Ying Xiang is a better bush and Qing Xin is a better tea, and that tension explains why Taiwanese growers keep planting a plant that gives them trouble. For a drinker buying at moderate elevation, where Qing Xin’s advantage largely disappears, Ying Xiang is often the more honest purchase.

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