Standardised tasting set vs gaiwan

Two lidded vessels used for evaluating tea, with opposite goals. The tasting set is designed to prepare several teas identically, deliberately over-brewing them so faults show; the gaiwan is designed to show a tea at its best and to change what it shows from infusion to infusion.

equipment

What is being compared

Point by point

AspectStandardised tasting setGaiwan
GoalComparability. Every tea gets the same treatment whether it suits it or not.Expression. Parameters are adjusted to the tea in front of you.
Steep lengthLong and fixed — the method produces a deliberately harsh liquor.Short and variable, from a few seconds upward.
Number of infusionsOne.Many, and the change between them is the information.
What it revealsFaults, and differences between lots under identical conditions.What the tea can do, and how it evolves.
Who uses itBuyers and industrial tasters, working through many samples.Drinkers and sellers showing a tea.
MaterialWhite porcelain, unglazed on the foot, in a lidded pot and matching bowl.Porcelain, glass or glazed stoneware.

The short answer

A tea that tastes good in a tasting set is unusual and a tea that tastes good in a gaiwan is expected, which is why professional and enthusiast tasting notes so often disagree. Neither method is dishonest; they are asking different questions, and only one of them is asking what the tea will be like to drink.

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