Mei Zhan vs Tie Guan Yin

A cultivar made into almost everything against one made into essentially one thing. Mei Zhan is the standing demonstration that processing outranks botany in the cup; Tie Guan Yin is the counter-example where a cultivar’s aroma is the entire reason the tea exists.

cultivar

What is being compared

Point by point

AspectMei ZhanTie Guan Yin
Processing rangeVery wide — oolong, black tea and white tea are all made from it.Narrow in practice; it is grown for one style of oolong.
Aromatic distinctivenessModerate, which is precisely why it takes so many forms.Very high, and no substitute reproduces the orchid-and-lilac note exactly.
AgronomicsReasonable, which supports its versatility.Low yield, weak resistance and a short optimal picking window.
What the cultivar name predictsAlmost nothing without the processing method beside it.A great deal, which is why it is imitated.
Substitution riskLow; nobody passes anything off as Mei Zhan.High. Ben Shan, Mao Xie and Huang Dan are all sold in its place.
Teaching valueThe clearest proof that a category is made rather than grown.The clearest counter-example, where the plant is the category.

The short answer

Held side by side the pair settles an argument that runs through the whole catalogue: processing determines the type, and cultivar determines whether the type is worth making from this plant. Tie Guan Yin is the exception that proves it, and the exceptions are rarer than cultivar marketing implies.

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