Jin Mu Dan vs Rui Xiang

Two bred Fujian cultivars planted for aroma and volume rather than for lineage, and the pair that shows what modern Chinese cultivar breeding is actually optimising for. They are frequently sold without the cultivar named at all, inside a regional description.

cultivar

What is being compared

Why these get confused

Both are sometimes assumed to be flavoured because the aroma is so forward relative to the body. Neither is; the fragrance is in the plant, and the same suspicion attaches to Jin Xuan in Taiwan and Kanayamidori in Japan for the same reason.

Point by point

AspectJin Mu DanRui Xiang
Aromatic intensityVery high, and high enough to carry a tea on its own.Sweet and floral, but at a lower intensity and with more emphasis on smoothness.
Processing rangeWide. It appears as oolong and as black tea, and the aroma survives both.Narrower; it is grown chiefly as a fragrant oolong.
Vigour and yieldGood vigour with wide processing tolerance, which is why it spread quickly.Good yield, planted where a fragrant rock tea is wanted in quantity.
BodyAroma leads; the body is adequate rather than the point.Smoother and rounder in the mouth, at the cost of aromatic reach.
Where you meet itIn aromatic Wuyi oolong and increasingly in Fujian black tea, often unnamed.In mid-priced rock tea, almost always unnamed.
What it is competing withThe ming cong, on aroma — and it wins on intensity while losing on depth.Shui Xian, on volume — and it offers more fragrance for a similar price.

The short answer

These are the cultivars behind a large share of the affordable aromatic rock tea on the market, and knowing that is more useful than knowing which is better. A tea that smells louder than its price suggests is very often one of them, and that is a fact about breeding rather than a sign of added flavouring.

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