Da Yu Ling vs Li Shan

The two highest commercial tea areas in Taiwan, and the point at which altitude stops being a marketing adjective and becomes an agricultural constraint. Both crop once or twice a year rather than four or five times, and both are priced accordingly.

growing region

What is being compared

Point by point

AspectDa Yu LingLi Shan
Elevation2,000 to 2,600 metres — the highest commercial gardens on the island.1,700 to 2,600 metres.
Harvests per yearOne or two.Two.
SettingStrung along the Central Cross-Island Highway near the Hehuan pass, across three counties.Planted among fruit orchards well above two thousand metres.
CharacterThe most concentrated expression of the high-mountain profile; thick, cold and long-finishing.Very similar, with slightly more floral lift by the usual account.
Planted areaSmall, and constrained by terrain and by land-use policy.Small.
How much of the name is genuineLittle. Da Yu Ling is among the most over-claimed names in Taiwanese tea.Also heavily over-claimed, though less acutely.

The short answer

Above about two thousand metres the differences between Taiwanese mountains narrow considerably, and what separates these two in the cup is smaller than what separates either from a thousand-metre garden. The practical advice is to buy on evidence of elevation rather than on the specific ridge name, because the ridge name is the part that gets invented.

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