Charleston vs Hawai‘i

The two American tea origins, and they could hardly be less alike. One is a single sea-level garden on Wadmalaw Island harvested by a purpose-built machine; the other is a scatter of artisan plots on young volcanic soil at four hundred to twelve hundred metres, measured in acres and picked by hand.

growing region

What is being compared

Point by point

AspectCharlestonHawai‘i
LocationWadmalaw Island, in the South Carolina low country.The windward slopes of Hawai‘i Island, around Volcano and the Hāmākua coast.
ElevationEffectively sea level.300 to 1,300 metres.
HarvestingBy a purpose-built machine.By hand, on plots measured in acres.
Plant materialDescended from stock assembled during twentieth-century American tea experiments.Established from the late 1990s, from a range of introduced material.
ProductA single black tea produced at modest volume.Small lots across several categories, including oolong and white tea.
PriceLow for an American-grown tea.High — among the most expensive tea per gram anywhere.

The short answer

American tea exists at both ends of the spectrum simultaneously: a mechanised single-product garden and a hand-picked artisan sector with prices to match. Neither is representative of the other, and a drinker who tried one and drew a conclusion about American tea has drawn it from a sample of one.

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